Off on my adventure to Bozcaada, only one of two Turkish islands in the Aegean, the rest of the island being Greek. I left the hotel at 6:15 a.m. to take a taxi to Yenipaki, or new port, where the ferries leave from. I took a fast catamaran across the Sea of Marmara to Bandirma, then a bus to Canakkale, another bus to Geyikli, and a ferry to Bozcaada, mostly with no one speaking English! I did not know how long the journey would take, and had no reservations, but was on an adventure.
Yenikapi - where I bought a simit - a bagel Turkish style - for breakfast from the vendor outside the ferry terminal . . .
Leaving Istanbul . . .
On the catamaran . . . headed across the Sea of Marmara . . .
Our wake . . .
In Bandirma , I went to one of the travel agencies, and found a bus to Canakkale . . .
The land is so fertile, and every space was full of vegetation and crops. I have heard since that Turkey is one country that is able to feed itself, as they have a variety of climates, and are able to grow 2 to 3 to 4 rotations of crops. Everywhere there was something growing and people (women!) working in the fields. Lots of ripe cherries on the trees and on the road side for sale . . . and olive groves . . . and rice paddies.
A view from our very comfortable Mercede-Benz bus . . .
Lots of rice growing!
My helper . . . although we could not communicate verbally, we became fast friends, and she pointed out where we were on the map, that they were growing rice, etc. She got off in Biga, and left me on my journey to Canakkale . . .
The bus drove along the Canakkale Bogazi . . . looking across to Turkey on the other side . . .
Lots of big ships and tankers heading north towards Istanbul, the Bosphorus and the Black Sea . . . there is always an amazing amount of ship traffic heading north and south.
Upon arriving in Canakkale, I went to the bus company's desk. Although no one spoke English, I was able to communicate that I wanted to go to Bozcaada, and a man lead me directly to the small bus that takes you to the ferry. The bus left soon after I arrived, at 1:45 p.m.
Along the way to the ferry . . . fields of wheat or oats or some grain growing everywhere . . .
The bus stopped so that I could buy my ferry ticket, and then he drove us down the pier to the ferry. It was a beautiful sunny day, with not a cloud in the sky. In the distance across the Aegean, you can see the hill of Bozcaada in the far distance . . .
On the board the ferry, there was a group of women singing and dancing, and everyone else was clapping to the music and watching this impromptu show. It reminded me of a time many years ago in Greece, when waiting for a ferry, the women on the shore started singing and dancing as well, and I wondered if these women were of Greek descent, heading to this island that was once Greek . . .
Arriving in the port of Bozcaada, past this beautiful blue sail boat anchored beyond the pier . . .
Bozcaada is an active fishing village, with lots of fishing boats, moored in the aqua and blue Aegean.
Walking through the village, it seemed each whitewashed doorway was more beautiful than the next, with lace curtains, blooming geraniums and bougainvillea, cats sleeping on the sills, and lots of blue paint . . .
These ladies were weaving green grape vines into wreathes, and then making sea heather wreathes that frequented so many doorways . . .
And finally I arrived at Hotel KAÝKÝAS, and met the owner, Handan Beydili, after many emails that started in May from Vermont . . . This is Lonely Planet's suggestions of Turkey's best kept secret . . . and I was beginning to see why. The hotel was scrumptious, and right on the water under the shadow of the fort, and looking across the Aegean. Handan has a wonderful creative eye, and the hallways were filled with various collections of icons, old books, and artwork . . . with grape vines coming into the reception area . . .
This was my bedroom . . . with a view of the old fort and breakfast area below . . .
After checking in the hotel, I walked around the town, enjoying the evening, and people and boat watching . . .
Red fishing nets . . .
Hollyhocks galore - growing out of every nook and cranny . . .
A women making grape vine wreathes . . .
Lots of cats everywhere . . . sleeping on the sills or stone steps or chairs . . .
I decided to go for a dip in the Aegean. This is the hotel's beach area, a stoney beach, with tables and chairs on a wooden deck . . . with a view of the fort . . .
Looking to the left from the beach . . . This cute little toddler with no clothes on, fishing with his dad . . .
After walking around the town, Handan invited me to have some raw sea urchins with olive oil and wine
(a first for me), and a glass of their own wine from the grapes on the island. They were delicious!
(Of course everything is probably good with olive oil and wine!) The sea urchins are only in season for a few weeks of the year, and the season has just begun. I had been watching a man collecting them off our beach . . . so these were minutes fresh!
You take a piece of bread, and pour a bit of olive oil and wine over the sea urchin, and then use the bread as a spoon to scoop it all out . . .
Yum!
It was a wonderful dinner, as we watched the evening fade, and the fort become illuminated . . .
Oh how I love island life . . . I was home!
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